Hi guys, I’m restoring this Feldbluse and it had sew in shoulder boards at one point, so I’m trying to add some that I bought, but I can’t get the top fabric to stay in place over the top of the end of the shoulder boards. I sew it all the way through, (top layer > shoulder board > bottom fabric) but the top layer of fabric always pulls back revealing the ends of the shoulder boards, and it looks terrible, despite me pulling the ends nice and taut. Has anyone sewn these in before?

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Loose

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How I would like them to look

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How they end up looking

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