2010 June | Sõja ajaloo portaal. Militaria.ee

Finn Puukko in German “Service” …

Here´s a Puukko, I received today.

Puukko´s have still the same design like decades before and post WWII-knive´s, like that were, (and still are), "militarized" for the collector´s-market ! :mad:

But, my stomach say´s, this one´s OK ! cool militaria

Rgds.,

R.

P.S.:
Salla is a municipal in the finnisch part of Lapland, apx. 150 klicks in the east of Rovaniemi.

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….My small collection….

...hi guys the camera isnt that great(pocket camera)...lol.....just a new collector trying to learn the ropes...gee you guys have great collections...cheers steve...(australia)cool militaria

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Wanted: Japanese flares wanted:

Looking for any 28mm or 35 mm flares for Japanese flare pistol. Also, Japanese marked 12ga. shells which were also used during the war. Please email price and condition to: waynee@dcsi.net

Also need flare pistol holsters..any types

Need help! Motorized Gendarmerie Protective Helmet

Hi.
This helmet is for sale at a militariasite and i wonder if you guys thinks it's worth its price of 400. I think the helmet looks good and not a quite common one.
(I am really interested in buying the helmet)

All thoughts are welcome. :)

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M1 liner with Green Fiber is Post Vietnam?

Hi All,
The "phenolic resin" in my M1 liner is green. Wiki says that is one of the changes they made in the early seventies. Does that mean my green(fiber) liner is post-vietnam era? There’s a manufacturer symbol in the inside center that I don’t recognize as well. Could this be international? I bought it from a us army surplus in the late ’70s.
Thanks.

–EDIT–
Maybe I’m out of line here, I just realized the forum is "WW2 militaria". Sorry, it’s late.

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Muddy helmet on ebay uk

There is an interesting ww2 german helmet on ebay .It is covered in mud and has apparently a single luft decal.it also has a little camo wire.the liner looks genuine and has dried out and disintegrated in places ,no chinstrap.asuming its all genuine i think his price is very inflated.WE ALL KNOW SOLDIERS IN SOME CIRCUMSTANCES COVERED THEIR HELMETS IN MUD,BUT IS THIS WW2 ERA MUD?.I THINK THE HELMET IS WORTH 350£s IF GENUINE ,IT WILL BE INTERESTING TO HEAR WHAT OTHER GUYS MAKE OF IT,LVps the number is 160447643194,and the scary price is 750£s to start,LV HAVE YOU BID YET

Hot helmet,bunged vent

I was cleaning a little the latest helmet iv gotten an m40 ,and left it by the window for minutes.It being a hot day the shell was very hot and it reminded me of the discomfort in combat when the weather was hot and the soldier had to wear the helmet.Their heads must have sweated a lot.I know when things where quiet they wore their soft caps.Another thing about this helmet is that one of the m40 vents looks like it was bunged up deliberately,to probably keep out the cold.in cleaning it ,a lot of the white wash is now showing,was this a standard thing the soildiers did with the m35s ect?lv

Non Combattant mounted medal bars

I love these under appreciated gems! I would love to see what else is out there!

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Question about dagger restoration–(SS example)

Hi guys, I came across this SS dagger for sale. It seems fairly cheap to me, but I'm not sure if the price-- about $1,000-- is a good deal, about right--or too much, considering the seller has carried out comprehensive restoration. I'm not exactly interested in buying, I'm mainly just curious about the effects of restoration on a piece's value. Pictures below, here's what he said he did.

Quote:

This SS dagger is just in and I bought it with grip chips and much greying to the blade. I have carried out restoration work to it as follows;

1. Strip down the dagger completely. This was quite straight forward, the pommel nut was loose and after taking the scabbard fitting screws out the top and bottom scabbard fittings came off quite easily.

2. I purchased an Ebony wax block made my Liberon (available on Ebay). As said previously tips were obtained from Paul Hogle for this. With this type of wax block you just need to cut off a small amount from the block (enough to fill the chip) and then work the wax in your hands until it becomes soft and workable. I then pushed the piece into the grip and worked it well in and shaped it with my fingers and a small knife. I then did this for each chip and allowed the wax to set overnight.
The following day I (on Pauls advice) got a piece of paper on a flat surface and rubbed the filled part of the grip on the paper (like a wax crayon) to smooth the filled area.
To finish the grip off I used a black liquid shoe polish all over the grip, let it dry then buff it up. Job done !

2. I gave the blade a clean up with a light grade wet or dry paper and semichrome working across the blade. It was badly pitted so it was never going to be brilliant but it has brightened it up somewhat.

3. I cleaned the crossguards up with semichrome. They are the pot metal type and the plating had completely gone. They cleaned up quite well and look better.

4.The scabbard paint was quite bad so I decided to completely rub down to the bare metal with various grades of Wet or Dry paper. I then sprayed 2 coats of grey primer onto the shell and let it dry overnight.
The following day I sprayed 2 top coats of black gloss paint and let that dry.
The fittings were cleaned up as were the internal runners and then re assembled back together and a top fitting screw was added as one was missing. This was after I had re threaded all the holes using the correct tap.

So is this dagger a good deal, worth the price, or not? I don't really know much about restoration. Thanks!

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