Wondering if this is III Reich Tinnie, U-Boat or another countries Good Luck charm Photos are attached
Opinions Appreciated
Thanks
Newton
Hey gang! Well, the bug just kept bitting! Had to get at least one.....(that's my reasoning and I'm sticking with it!). Anyhow....very happy with this one. Nicely marked and in great condition! Now I just need to find a tunic to put it on! L/15 marked for Otto Schickle....
Thought I'd share with you guys......I have to say: I'm liking it.....this could get dangerous! hahahaha
Rob
Hi guys
i have a ring missing in post
was being sent to forum member in austria
arrived in austria, but was not delivered to guy..
Royal mail cannot give me any info ,apart from it arrived
in country of destination..so much for tracked mail service..hmmm.i know slim chance it turns up
but if any collecters see it..please pm or email me..
Reward
cheers
fraser
hi folks whats your take on german dinnerware items plates bowls etc that have a diffrent colour of ink maker mark from the heer insignia like this one below are these original? or bad items?
i have a heer plate shown in big pic below and its maker mark and heer eagle are in the same ink and i have seen many luftwaffe heer daf plates done like this which i think are originals.
but why make a plate stamp it green to your company logo then put black insignia on it just looks untidy. alot of the pieces of tableware around are marked in this two colour ink scheme. it/they may well be all original thats why i ask you guys??
cheers for any thoughts and all comments welcome
cool militaria
Hello all,
I was at a loose end this afternoon so decided to make a pipe cleaner/tamper. For any of you non PC pipe smokers like myself here's the recipe;
Take one, (empty), .303 Radway Green Mk VII 1943 case.
Insert projectile.
Drill needle size hole and drive a very small brass pin through neck to hold projectile in position.
Drill hole through case below neck, (important or when you get to the soldering stage the inert primer is liable to pop out fast as the air in case expands).
File projectile at an angle exposing lead filler.
Remove brass pin, clean inside case neck and base of projectile.
Add flux to both and re-assemble.
Place in vice and apply small blowtorch, solder around neck, the lead filling should drip out at the same time. Mind your feet, molten lead can hurt your toes.
File off exposed ends of brass pin
Drill second hole in case and connect it to case hole 1 with a small file to make a slot.
Clean up and polish, add key ring, job done.
The slot is necessary so that both ends can be used, for tamping and cleaning pipe bowl, without it only one end will reach the bottom of your pipe.
Well, it makes a conversation piece and it actually works, also only takes a couple of hours.
Cheers,
navyman.
This was in the historic aircraft display at the Reno Air Races and then afterwords my friends did some work on it before it flew back home so I was able to crawl all over the bird and figured you might like to see a few of the pictures I took. This is probably the finest flying example on the planet.
I have two of these lights, The internal body is mounted on a gimble and in one picture you can make out an arrow. This has the instruction "to windward" The light switch is a bog standard household one and is stamped A crownM. Ididnt really know as to the purpose of these lights until I bought a book on the RAF Airfield Commandoes, in it is a picture of RAF men and a cluster of these lights on an airfield in Normandy. I have been told that the resistance also had them to mark out clandestine airstrips.The dome is made of plastic. A bit of a change from all the barn finds, John.
